Understanding HEMA: Navigating the Pros and Cons for Nail Professionals
Welcome to the HONA Podcast, where experts Mike and Charl discuss topics that matter most to nail professionals. This episode dives into HEMA (2-Hydroxyethyl methacrylate), a commonly used ingredient in the nail industry, which often raises questions due to its associated risks and benefits. Our goal is to dispel myths and provide an unbiased overview of HEMA – exploring why it’s used, its advantages and drawbacks, and why HONA has chosen to go HEMA-free.
What is HEMA?
HEMA is a widely used adhesive monomer in the nail industry, known for its effective bonding properties. It's found in various products such as builder gel, gel polish, and base coats. For decades, nail techs have relied on HEMA, often without realizing its presence. Its strong adhesion capability and versatility have made it a staple in nail formulations. However, as the industry evolves, its continued use is being questioned.
Pros of HEMA
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Adhesion: HEMA is renowned for its strong adhesive properties, making it a trusted ingredient in numerous nail products. Its ability to form a secure bond with the nail surface—whether glossy or prepped—makes it particularly popular.
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Cost-Effectiveness: For brands, HEMA is an affordable ingredient, allowing them to produce effective products at a lower cost. This affordability often translates to competitive pricing for nail techs.
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Viscosity: HEMA helps regulate the thickness of nail products, providing a consistency that’s easy to work with. For beginners, this can mean more time to manipulate the product without it running or setting too quickly.
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Familiarity: Many nail professionals have used HEMA-based products for years, making transitions between brands using this ingredient straightforward. Its predictability minimizes the learning curve.
Cons of HEMA
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Allergen Potential: The British Board of Dermatologists identifies HEMA as a leading allergen in nail products. Frequent exposure can lead to allergies, particularly for nail techs and regular clients.
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Outdated Chemistry: While HEMA has served the industry well, newer, safer ingredients have emerged. These alternatives often offer comparable benefits with reduced risks, making HEMA’s continued use feel outdated.
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Perception of Quality: Although HEMA’s affordability is advantageous, clients and techs increasingly perceive the use of cheaper, traditional ingredients as a potential compromise on quality compared to modern, innovative formulations.
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Professional Risk: Prolonged exposure to HEMA places nail techs at a higher risk of developing allergies. While gloves, masks, and proper ventilation help, consistent awareness and care are essential.
The Shift Towards HEMA-Free Alternatives
For nail professionals, HEMA-free options not only enhance client safety but also offer peace of mind for techs working with these products daily.